Description:
Pernand Vergelesses is a go-to example of why we like to focus on Burgundy’s edges: quality, price and availability.The terroir couldn’t be better—for either red or white wine. It’s a small appellation that lies at the foot of the legendary hill of Corton. In fact, some of Corton Charlemagnes’ vineyards are in Pernand. Pernand also has great producers, like Domaine Rollin who have been bottling their own production since the ‘50s, and selling a good chunk of it to Neal Rosenthal since the early ‘80s. Rollin has always been particularly great for anyone interested in Burgundian terroir, as their light touch with oak really lets the soil signature shine, even at a young age.
In spite of how good the wines are they remain somewhat under the radar, especially here in California. That might be because Pernand generally still lacks a bit of the caché of its neighbors, or perhaps because their style of precise, light touch wines of nuance and transparency wasn't quite what Chardonnay and Pinot drinkers had in mind in the Bay Area during the 90s and aughts. Whatever the reason, things are starting to change.
Simon Rollin, who joined his father Remí at the domaine back in 2003, made a long awaited trip to SF a couple months ago and I was fortunate to attend a dinner with him and Jean-Marc Pillot. Judging by the packed dining room and the reception from the crowd I don't think Simon's wines will be flying under the radar much longer.
Given climate change, Pernand’s exposition means slower maturations with gorgeous complexity and perfectly balanced acidity. As things continue to heat up in Burgundy the cooler sites in Pernand, Savigny and the like will be ever more appealing.
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